Becki's review

I have dined at Gyros Express on several occasions over the past two years with my husband and his parents, John and Anne Flanagan. Whenever James and I come to Radcliff they treat us to a meal out, and more often than not we end up at Gyros Express.

Each time we visit, the place looks different. There is a plethora of kitsch which provides a dive-like atmosphere but belies the true jewels of the restaurant. There are three: the varied menu that provides for both the picky eaters (James and Anne) and the more adventuresome (me and John); Manolous, the chef’s brother and courteous server, and Maria – the charming, diminutive chef and genius behind the food.

Our visits are always greeted by the ubiquitous scent of garlic and oftentimes by Maria herself. We are promptly served beverages after we are seated. The picky eaters always order the same thing, but James reports that his fajitas come different every time. I’m not sure why this happens, but it is notable that he always cleans his plate despite the changes.

I don’t believe I have ever ordered the same thing twice; each visit I try to experience something new and different. I have had crisp Greek salad with gyros meat, kalamata olives, and feta; made-to-order hummus with freshly-baked pita bread; lamb shanks and rice topped with toasted garlic, and delicious gyros. At the end of a recent visit, Maria told John and I that the next time we came just ask her to “fix us something to eat.” The culinary adventurer in me could not resist this suggestion, and on our last visit we did just that.

So after the picky eaters ordered their usual, Maria asked me what I liked and didn’t like. Yes to lamb, garlic, feta, vegetables, chicken, shrimp, pasta. No to organ meat, bivalves, eggplant. I was giddy with excitement just imagining what would be served.

About 25 minutes later, Maria served our meal and she did not disappoint. An ordinary round cake pan was placed before us as she announced that it was lamb pie. The pie consisted of golden flaky layers of phyllo filled with lamb gyro meat, fresh spinach, garlic, a sprinkling of fresh tomatoes, and feta cheese. It was cut into wedges and it was served with tzatziki sauce. We were also served fresh green beans topped with home-made tomato sauce laced with oregano, garlic, and olive oil.

The pie was rustic and exquisite. For as flaky as the top layer of phyllo was, the bottom was compressed and almost chewy. The filling provided a wonderful contrast to the crust and was a perfect concert of flavors; the tzatziki sauce was pungent with garlic and its cool sharpness was mouthwatering. I could not have dreamed of something more wonderful. The green beans were piping hot and cooked just right, and the tomato sauce was delicious.

What baffles me most about Gyros Express is why it is not packed with customers. Maria said it is busy at lunchtime thru the week and there is a fair amount of take-out business. She said people just don’t know about Greek cuisine.

From this diner’s experience Gyros Express is a welcome change to the chain theme restaurants serving predictable American fare. If you love garlic, feta, and home cooking made with the freshest ingredients, just walk in and ask Maria to fix you something to eat. You won’t be sorry you did!



Becki